Since its introduction in 2020, the Oris Caliber 400 has slowly been making its rounds throughout the wide ranging catalog of Oris watches. Their relatively new in-house movement can now be found within the 41.5mm Aquis diver and the sleek ProPilot. The Caliber 400 has also expanded into a series of movements that include the Caliber 401 found in the latest Carl Brashear Divers 65 and the Caliber 403 found within the Big Crown Pointer Date. But the movement that started it all has yet to find its way into a non-limited version of Oris’ venerable Divers 65, until now. Today, Oris debuts the Divers 65 12H Caliber 400, which includes their “New Standard” in-house movement packaged in a familiar vintage diver with more of a contemporary feel.
It’s been awhile since we’ve covered the Oris Caliber 400 so here’s a bit of a refresher on their latest series of in-house movements. The Caliber 400 was the follow up to Oris’ first in-house movement in the Caliber 110, which was a manual-wind movement that boasted a 10 day power reserve and a single large mainspring barrel. The Caliber 400 however, is an automatic movement powered by a more efficient system through a pair of twin mainsprings and a new wheel design. The result is a movement that is equipped with a 5 day power reserve. The Caliber 400 also uses a silicon lever and balance wheel, bolstering its resistance to being magnetized. In fact, its anti-magnetic properties blow the ISO 764 standards out of the water, with the Cal. 400 showing a deviation of less than 10 seconds per day after being exposed to a 2,550 gauss magnetic field. And although not certified, the in-house movement adheres to COSC standards, maintaining time within -3/+5 seconds per day. Now take all of that, and throw in a 10 year service interval, and you’re presented with a pretty strong case for a “buy once, cry once” watch with the Divers 65 12H Caliber 400.
The case format is quite similar. The Divers 65 12H Caliber 400 sports a 40mm stainless steel case, 100 meters of water resistance, and a sizable screw-down crown. The slight difference here, a bidirectional 12 hour bezel with an aluminum insert as opposed to a count-up dive bezel, allowing this particular model to track a second timezone. Hold for applause.
To my knowledge, this Divers 65 is the first black dial model that doesn’t come with any gilt or bronze accents. Instead, we get a black dial with stark white hour markers and a white hand set, both with polished surrounds. The Oris logo, as well as the rest of the dial writing is also colored in white. The dial and marker combination yield a Divers 65 that has more of a minimal and modern take
The Divers 65 12H Caliber 400 is most certainly an upgrade from the previous Divers 65’s from the new movement alone. Compared to the Oris 733, based on the Sellita SW200-1, the Caliber 400 triples the available power reserve, adds an anti-magnetic feature and a longer service window. The 40mm case sizing hits the sweet spot between their other 36mm and 42mm offerings. Readers will already know how I feel about the black dial. Lastly, the 12 hour bezel adds a different dynamic to the Divers 65. A dive watch is always a smart choice for traveling for its usual robust build and decent water resistance. But throw a 12 hour bezel into the mix, and the Divers 65 12H Caliber 400 is a no-brainer.
The Oris Caliber 400 is slowly becoming the “New Standard” within their ever-expanding catalog. You’ll have two options between a black leather strap or a steel bracelet (lovely bracelet taper included) with the Divers 65 12H Caliber 400. The Divers 65 12H Caliber 400 on leather comes with a price tag of $3,500 and if you opt for the steel bracelet, you’re looking at a slight premium at $3,700. Do yourself a favor, and spend the little extra. The Divers 65 12H Caliber 400 is now available directly through Oris. Oris
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