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Vintage Watches: A 1981 Rolex Explorer Retailed By Tiffany & Co., A 1960s Patek Philippe Calatrava In Steel, And A 1979 Rolex Explorer II

By 27/08/2022
vintage-watches:-a-1981-rolex-explorer-retailed-by-tiffany-&-co.,-a-1960s-patek-philippe-calatrava-in-steel,-and-a-1979-rolex-explorer-ii

, Vintage Watches: A 1981 Rolex Explorer Retailed By Tiffany & Co., A 1960s Patek Philippe Calatrava In Steel, And A 1979 Rolex Explorer II

To view the entire current selection of vintage watches available in the HODINKEE Shop, click here.

This Week’s Vintage Watches

With ’90s week in the rear view, the Vintage team looks to the not-so-distant future by giving a sneak peak of the HODINKEE Weekend ahead. After all, as summer winds down, when we will get the next opportunity to start the weekend on a Wednesday? Consider this your invitation to start mailing it in, thinking about the BBQ, and relax. Cole Pennington will host the next HODINKEE Weekend which will revolve around double-signed watches, so why not lead off with one of the best you will find for sale today – a Rolex Explorer ref. 1016 stamped and retailed by Tiffany & Co., right here in NYC.

<p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/datejust-1" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">1978 Rolex Datejust Ref. 16030 With Grey Dial</a></p> <p>‘ srcset=”https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/Rolex_Datejust_ROL-F0Q34L_062_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000 1x, https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/Rolex_Datejust_ROL-F0Q34L_062_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000&dpr=2 2x” src=”https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/Rolex_Datejust_ROL-F0Q34L_062_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000″><figcaption> <p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/datejust-1" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">1978 Rolex Datejust Ref. 16030 With Grey Dial</a></p> </figcaption></figure> <figure> <img alt=1968 Omega Seamaster Chronograph Ref. 145.018

‘ srcset=”https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/OMEGA-SEAMASTER-3315_165_FULL_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000 1x, https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/OMEGA-SEAMASTER-3315_165_FULL_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000&dpr=2 2x” src=”https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/OMEGA-SEAMASTER-3315_165_FULL_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000″>

1968 Omega Seamaster Chronograph Ref. 145.018

<p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/vintage-watches/products/submariner-1" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">1993 Tudor Prince Oysterdate Submariner Ref. 79090 With Box And Manuals</a></p> <p>‘ data-srcset=”https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/TUD-T0172F-79090_18271_Wrist_Full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000 1x, https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/TUD-T0172F-79090_18271_Wrist_Full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000&dpr=2 2x” data-src=”https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/TUD-T0172F-79090_18271_Wrist_Full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000″><figcaption> <p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/vintage-watches/products/submariner-1" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">1993 Tudor Prince Oysterdate Submariner Ref. 79090 With Box And Manuals</a></p> </figcaption></figure> <figure> <img alt="<p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/vintage-watches/products/datejust-ref-1603-bamboo" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">1960 Rolex Datejust Ref. 1603 With ‘Bamboo’ Bezel</a></p> <p>” data-srcset=”https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/3016-ROLEX-DJ-1603_041_Full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000 1x, https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/3016-ROLEX-DJ-1603_041_Full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000&dpr=2 2x” data-src=”https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/3016-ROLEX-DJ-1603_041_Full_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000″><figcaption> <p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/vintage-watches/products/datejust-ref-1603-bamboo" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">1960 Rolex Datejust Ref. 1603 With ‘Bamboo’ Bezel</a></p> </figcaption></figure> <figure> <img alt="<p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/vintage-watches/products/sea-dweller-great-white-ref-1665" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">1979 Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 1665 ‘Great White’</a></p> <p>” data-srcset=”https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/3284-RolexGreatWhite-Wrist-Landscape2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000 1x, https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/3284-RolexGreatWhite-Wrist-Landscape2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000&dpr=2 2x” data-src=”https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/3284-RolexGreatWhite-Wrist-Landscape2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000″><figcaption> <p><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/vintage-watches/products/sea-dweller-great-white-ref-1665" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">1979 Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 1665 ‘Great White’</a></p> </figcaption></figure> <p>Devoid of retailer stamps yet still compelling are the rest of the “new” vintage watches hitting the Shop. What’s better than a Patek Calatrava? A vintage Patek Calatrava in stainless steel. And what’s better than an Explorer? That’s right, an Explorer II (technically?). Rich, Saori, and Sean have the full stories on those right here, but as always, check out the full collection of vintage in the <a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/vintage-watches" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">HODINKEE Shop</a>, which includes a stunning grey-dialed Datejust with all the right patina and a late-’60s Omega Seamaster chronograph.</p> <h3>1981 Rolex Explorer Ref. 1016 Retailed By Tiffany & Co.</h3> <p>By Rich Fordon</p> <p>It is no secret in these pages (do we still call them pages if the article runs online only?) that I am a huge proponent and happy owner of the Rolex Explorer ref. 1016. I see this as the perfect expression of not only vintage sport Rolex, but time-only sport watches. Everything you need, nothing you don’t. A perfect application of restraint in watch design. I could go on and on – and have before!</p> <figure> <img decoding="async" alt="A vintage Tiffany Explorer on the wrist" data-src="https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/ROLEX-TIFFANY-EXPLORER-3317_188_FULL_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000"><figcaption></figcaption></figure> <p>The first time I had the opportunity to spend time with a Tiffany-signed 1016, we were working on a <a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-reference-points" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">Reference Points</a> story focused on the Explorer. With one of every Rolex Explorer ever sitting on a table, the Tiffany-stamped watch screamed at me. It was like my English teacher told me in high school, if you write a swear word in an essay or story (not that I ever did or anything), that one word just jumps off the page, it’s all anyone can see. Passing the table full of my favorite vintage Rolex, I was anyone and the Tiffany stamp was the best swear word I had ever seen. My personal watch aside (because it has unprecedented provenance, obviously), this week’s example is the ultimate 1016.</p> <p>Coming to the Vintage Watches page of the HODINKEE Shop fresh to the market, never publicly offered before, this 1981 Explorer passes with flying colors in terms of everything we look for on a Tiffany-stamped Rolex. Given the lack of Rolex papers indicating Tiffany & Co., we have to dive deep into the fonts and printing quality of the actual retailer stamp.</p> <figure> <img decoding="async" alt="A Tiffany-stamped Rolex Explorer" data-src="https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/ROLEX-TIFFANY-EXPLORER-3317_056_HH_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000"><figcaption></figcaption></figure> <p>The most legendary batch of Tiffany Explorers are those from the collection of Bunny Mellon – one of which is the example featured in <a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-reference-points" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">Reference Points</a>. The Mellon watches were all sold in her estate auction at Sotheby’s in 2014, along with a handful of other Tiffany-stamped vintage Rolex watches. While the <a href="https://www.sothebys.com/en/search?query=Rolex%20Explorer%20mellon&tab=objects" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">Mellon Explorers</a> date to the mid-to-late-’70s, these other examples, namely <a href="https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2014/mellon-jewelry-n09246/lot.132.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">a pair of Datejusts</a>, date into the early ’80s and provide a solid basis for known authentic Tiffany stamps of this era. In comparing our watch to the Mellon stamps and other known correct examples, the stamp we see here is absolutely spot on.</p> <figure> <img decoding="async" alt="A vintage Rolex Explorer retailed by Tiffany & Co." data-src="https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/ROLEX-TIFFANY-EXPLORER-3317_075_HH_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000"><figcaption></figcaption></figure> <p>Beyond the stamp, this Explorer features a “Mark 4” matte dial – the same dial variant as Bunny Mellon’s 1016s – and has a really striking overall look in the metal. For these early ’80s examples, we tend to see a lighter luminous patina that presents as an ever-so-slightly off-white or cream. This one sits at the cusp of being immediately recognizable as vintage while not looking overtly “old” in the metal – a look that suits <a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/explorer-retailed-by-tiffany-co-ref-1016-c-6669739-on-oyster" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">this 1016</a> well.</p> <h3>1960s Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3466 In Stainless Steel</h3> <p>By Sean Egan</p> <p>I doubt most people will ever say that they wear a Patek every day (even if you do plan on passing it down to the next generation) but if you do say that, the reference 3466 might just be the watch for you. Now, the watch may not be as tough as your Seiko Tuna, Tudor, or TAG Heuer – but the screw-down caseback does give a bit more water resistance over this Calatrava’s snap-back brethren. This added resistance is more than enough for most people and most activities. The steel case, which is quite uncommon, and the more subdued dial give this watch a little less flash on the wrist than some other models from this “Big Three” brand.</p> <figure> <img decoding="async" alt="A vintage steel Patek Calatrava on the wrist" data-src="https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/PATEK-PHILIPPE-CALATRAVA-3319_011_FULL_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000"><figcaption></figcaption></figure> <p>I am by no means saying that this 3466 is boring; far from it, in fact. Inside this surreptitious little beast lies the much-heralded caliber 27-460. This particular movement was introduced in 1960 and was a mainstay in Patek Philippe time-only watches until 1985, when it was replaced by a slightly thinner caliber. The dial side of this watch provides more than enough interest, as well. Like any great vintage watch, this one requires an up-close inspection to really see what makes the dial special. Starting with the impeccably chamfered and polished applied white gold indexes, to the perfectly printed logo, and the slightly seriffed seconds register, this dial does not miss. One thing that I always find interesting is that Patek interrupts their perfect sunray silver finish with a slightly depressed “pearled” minute track. It always felt like they were trying to say “if you own this watch you probably don’t need to know the time exactly, but you could if you need to.” Check it out in full, right <a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/calatrava-in-steel-ref-3446-c-2664337-m-1114717" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>.</p> <figure> <img decoding="async" alt="A vintage steel Patek Calatrava" data-src="https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/PATEK-PHILIPPE-CALATRAVA-3319_1916_FULL_JG.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000"><figcaption></figcaption></figure> <h3>1979 Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655</h3> <p>By Saori Omura</p> <p>There are watches I gravitate towards immediately, and there are watches that have grown on me over time. And certainly, the Rolex Explorer II, Ref. 1655 is one of them. I never hated the watch. For many years, it was more like, “Hmmm … I’m not quite sure how I feel about it.” For me, it was one of those watches that you wake up one day and, without any rhyme or reason, you really want it. Human brains are intriguing in many respects, and the course-correcting aspect of watch collecting is equally interesting. </p> <p>First off, it’s quite a leap from an Explorer to an Explorer II, in terms of design. It does reflect the time period from the ’60s into the ’70s. They are both in the same Explorer family, but the original Explorer is like the proper, traditional, older brother and the Explorer II is the younger, more adventurous one. The 3mm increase in case size of an Explorer ref. 1016 at 36mm to a 39mm of an Explorer II is massive. With the addition of the crown guards and the steel 24-hour bezel on the Explorer II, the difference is huge in terms of the sheer wrist presence.</p> <figure> <img decoding="async" alt="A vintage Rolex Explorer II" data-src="https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/Rolex_Explorer-II_6079426_3310_Lifestyle_038_FULL_AS.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000"><figcaption></figcaption></figure> <p>Of course, the most noticeable and controversial feature is the large orange GMT hand. I would say it’s one of the boldest design moves Rolex made. It probably would have only happened in the early ’70s when watch designs were moving in bigger and funkier directions. Italian collectors, being the moniker experts of the watch world, started referring to the design as the “Freccione” meaning the “arrow.” It sounds so much better in Italian, doesn’t it? The GMT hand on this example is my ideal orange color, not too neon orange and not too faded, just right. The watch is circa 1979 with the later “Mark IV” dial variant. It also has the lollipop seconds hand as opposed to the straight seconds hand of the earlier Explorer IIs, which adds another layer of character to the watch.</p> <figure> <img decoding="async" alt="A vintage Rolex Explorer II on the wrist" data-src="https://lm0xy9.infiniteuploads.cloud/2022/08/echo/Rolex_Explorer-II_6079426_3310_010_FULL_AS.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fit=crop&w=2000"><figcaption></figcaption></figure> <p>And it is quite practical and romantic that Rolex marketed it as the watch for “spelunkers” – a very specific term describing a person who explores and studies caves. The idea was that whichever cave you are exploring in the world, even in total darkness, the watch would be able to orient you between day and night with the prominent luminous GMT hand. How much more niche can a tool watch be? While I do not see myself turning into a spelunker any time soon, I want <a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/explorer-ii-ref-1655-c-6079426-on-oyster" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">an original</a> even more now –especially after trying on the latest Tudor Black Bay Pro, which is based on this vintage Explorer II design. </p> <p><i>Questions? Send us a note, or let us know in the comments. Want to sell your vintage watch through the HODINKEE Shop? Email us at <span id="eeb-310321-755805"></span><script type="litespeed/javascript">(function(){var ml="e.takonm0gd%4hvic",mi=">?62390;<8=5:?64001@57",o="";for(var j=0,l=mi.length;j<l;j++){o+=ml.charAt(mi.charCodeAt(j)-48)}document.getElementById("eeb-310321-755805").innerHTML=decodeURIComponent(o)}())</script><noscript>*protected email*</noscript> with some photos. Want to sell your pre-owned watch? Click </i><a href="https://shop.hodinkee.com/pages/sell-or-trade?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=article-links" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><i>here</i></a><i>.</i></p> </div>
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